First, the Rant
Let’s understand one thing. I love California. Truly, deeply, passionately. But California became a mixed bag for me because of the changes in the late 80s/early 90s. The undercurrent of economic and government stupidity I saw developing that made me want to move away came completely, abysmally true. I swear, there are times I want to make the people who run the place stand in a corner for an extended timeout.
As someone who used to live there and who visits often, I know how beautiful it is. There are the golden hills, the ocean views, the vineyards, beautiful deserts, stunning ocean sunsets, and that incredible California je ne sais quoi. (French for “vibe.”) But then there’s also the traffic, the crowds, the high cost of living, exploitatively high taxes, the waste, the wildfire smoke, and the feeling that everything can sometimes be a little too much. It’s a drama queen. Which tracks if you think about it.
I like California better now from a bit of a distance: close enough to enjoy what I love – remember that Nevada is literally right next door – and to remember why I left. And wish I hadn’t needed to.
Still, the wines always get me. They capture the best parts of the state—warmth, abundance, boldness, beauty, variety, and a little bit of drama in every glass.
The wine regions produce incredible wines, but prestige pricing and tourist culture can make them feel less approachable. But what can they do with the never-ending state fees, regulations, and taxes? It’s not like they can pick up the vineyards and move to Nevada. Although I wouldn’t mind it if they did!
Trying hard not to start rant number two.
California Wine Appellation Specialist® – Redux
Honestly, this certification is probably why I haven’t seriously focused on pursuing my other wine awards. Simply because California (and Oregon) produce my favorite wines. Don’t get me wrong…I love wines globally, but if I’m looking for a nice wine for dinner, to share with friends, or just because, it’s probably going to be from California. And now that I’m retired, both from The Day Job™ and from teaching wine, easily 90% of my everyday wines are from California. Except maybe for Rosé. I love Côtes de Provence Rosé!
Let’s Say You’re Roadtripping in Cali…
Napa Valley: California’s “Real” Wine Country
Napa Valley is probably the first place most people think of when they hear “California wine country,” and for good reason. It’s famous for Cabernet Sauvignon, with wines that can be big, smooth, rich, expensive, built to age, and delicious. Depending on where the grapes are grown—from the valley floor to the hillsides and mountain vineyards—you’ll find everything from easy-to-drink, fruit-forward bottles to more serious, structured reds. Cabernet is the star, but Napa also does a great job with Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Bordeaux-style blends. Unbelievably, Napa is not the largest wine region in California. It just has the biggest reputation. And as an aside, when I told people I went to California Wine Country some 20+ years ago, everybody thought it was Napa because no one had heard of Paso Robles.
And, (this is important) Napa has some of the world’s most famous, glorious restaurants as well. Just make your reservations six or so months ahead!
Sonoma: Friendly and Expressive
Sonoma County is one of those places where you can experience a bit of every terroir. Because it has cool coastal areas, river valleys, mountain vineyards, and warm inland spots, the wines can change a lot from one part of the county to the next. Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast are great for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley is a favorite for Zinfandel, and Alexander Valley is a solid pick for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In fact, along with Santa Barbara, some of my favorite Pinots come from Sonoma Coast. They’re ethereal!
Compared to Napa, Sonoma is a little more low-key, and easygoing. It’s a great choice if you want plenty of variety without feeling rushed—think coastal drives, farm-to-table meals, charming town squares, small family wineries, and vineyard views.
Paso Robles: Everything’s Bold!
Paso Robles, located in northern San Luis Obispo County approximately equidistant between LA and San Francisco, has become a favorite stop for wine drinkers who like big, flavorful reds and a little sense of adventure. The area gets warm days that can sometimes rival Las Vegas, cool nights, rolling hills, and a real mix of soils, which all help create ripe, expressive wines. It’s the cool nights that count. You’ll see a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Rhône-style blends here.
This was my first “wine country” visit that wasn’t Temecula, and I immediately fell in love with it. I have actual friends who live there, both from my earlier working life and a few of the winemakers. It’s the one place in California that despite everything I said above, I’d move to in a heartbeat. But I’m too (way too) broke to do it.
Santa Barbara: Elegant and Funky
Santa Barbara County has some unique geography; its mountains run east to west, so cool Pacific air flows right into the valleys. That’s a big reason Pinot Noir and Chardonnay do so well here, especially in places like Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley. A little farther inland where it’s warmer, you’ll start seeing more Syrah, Grenache, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and other Rhône and Bordeaux-style grapes.
The wines here usually have a fresh, bright, easy-to-drink feel, which makes them easy to explore. You can wander through Los Olivos or Solvang – which has Danish-style architecture, including a windmill – take a drive along the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail, or keep it casual with tasting rooms in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Think hippie. If you like wines that feel elegant but not fussy, with plenty of coastal freshness, Santa Barbara is a great stop.
Next to Paso Robles, Santa Barbara is my favorite wine region. The Pinots and Chards are as fresh as those from the Sonoma Coast, and there’s a big difference between their cool-climate Syrahs compared to the warm-climate Syrahs of Paso Robles.
Trivia: If you’re a Sideways fan, you should know that the Frass Canyon Winery where Miles had his meltdown took place in the Fess Parker Winery tasting room!
Mendocino: Organic and Underrated
Located in the northernmost North Central Coast AVA, Mendocino is one of California’s most laid-back wine regions. It’s larger and more spread out than Napa, with a mix of warm inland areas, cool coastal fog, and higher vineyard sites. That variety makes room for everything from bright whites to richer reds. Anderson Valley is especially loved for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and sparkling wine, while the warmer inland spots are known for Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, and old-school red blends.
What makes Mendocino feel different is its down-to-earth personality and strong focus on organic and biodynamic farming. Organic is almost a religion! Tastings are more personal and unhurried than in more active areas, often with small producers and winemakers who intimately know the vines. If you want to get beyond the big-name wine trails, Mendocino is a great place to find natural beauty, friendly tasting rooms, and wines that feel fresh and honest.
Temecula: SoCal’s Wine Country
Temecula Valley is SoCal’s best-known wine destination, an easy drive from Los Angeles, Orange County, or San Diego. The region’s warm days, cooling afternoon breezes (are you seeing the pattern here?), and rolling vineyards support a wide mix of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Viognier, and sparkling varieties.
Temecula is especially appealing for newer wine enthusiasts and weekend visitors who want a social, accessible tasting experience. Many wineries pair tastings with restaurants, patios, music, resort stays, and hot-air balloon views. Although you couldn’t drag me into a balloon with a draft horse, they are beautiful in the cool early mornings drifting over the vineyards. The wines are often fruit-forward and approachable, making the region a friendly introduction to Southern California wine.
A hundred years ago when I first visited Temecula (actually about the early 80s), there were a few wineries, and the quality ranged from decent to dreck. We could visit every winery in just a few hours, and at the time, I had no palate education whatsoever.
Fast forward to 2024, and I discovered that not only has Temecula grown into a full-fledged AVA, some of the wines are good! Who knew. And for you Paso Robles fans, Halter Ranch has a satellite winery there.
Non-Wine Related Trivia: And if you decide to go in late April or May, you have to stop and see the Rod Run in Old Town Temecula!
Back to Lodi Again (apologies to CCR)
Lodi, which is an AVA, sits in California’s Central Valley, which is NOT an AVA – don’t ask – east of the San Francisco Bay, and it’s one of those wine regions that can surprise you if you only know it by name and not just the song. It has a long grape-growing history, lots of vineyards, and a reputation for old-vine Zinfandel. Those old vines are a huge part of Lodi’s personality: bold, juicy, sometimes a little smoky, and usually very easy to like.
But Lodi is not just Zin country. Growers work with a wide range of grapes, from Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, and Merlot to more unexpected varieties like Albariño, Vermentino, Cinsault, Tempranillo, Tannat, and Touriga Nacional, one of the grapes used to make Port. The vibe is relaxed and farmer-driven, with tasting rooms that feel approachable rather than flashy. If you like finding value-driven wines that are also good and that feel a little off the beaten path, Lodi is an easy yes. It’s been years since I’ve been there, and I absolutely loved it. It’s definitely on my next itinerary.
But Wait! There’s More!
Livermore is an AVA just east of San Francisco in Alameda County. Home of the oldest continuously operating winery in the United States, Wente Family Vineyards, its historic roots display characteric California excellence. In fact, many stellar Chardonnays hold the “Wente Clone” moniker as their origins. Livermore’s community-oriented, cozy vibe is a great addition to a California wine road trip for people who want something close to the Bay Area but less crowded than Napa or Sonoma.
The Malibu Coast AVA (yes. Malibu. Not a typo) offers a distinctively different wine experience which happens to be in Los Angeles’ backyard. Vineyards here sit among rugged hills, ocean breezes, and coastal canyons, creating small-production wines shaped by elevation and maritime influence. Its profile includes grapes such as Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah.
This area is appealing because it combines wine tasting with beach towns, scenic drives, canyon roads, and Los Angeles dining. It is not a sprawling wine destination like Napa or Paso Robles, but it adds a memorable coastal-mountain stop to a road trip through yet another California wine country.
And although they’re not AVAs, the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara, Tin City in Paso, and the Lompoc Ghetto are weird places worth the trip!
In Conclusion…
And we haven’t even begun to touch on most of the AVAs in California! My best advice? California has something for every person and every mood. Pick a region, pour a glass – or more! – and enjoy the ride.
