Technically, many wines can be aged. “Aging” means keeping wines in ideal or ideal-adjacent conditions. We call that “provenance” and “smart.”
When I purchased the magnum bottle of 2013 Desparada Fragment Sauvignon Blanc in 2024, I knew it had been well kept. Of course! It was born and raised in the same winery. It went straight into one of my wine coolers, where, until last week, it continued to sleep. While I stressed about it.
White Wines Can’t Age!
Well, that’s a lie, but there’s also context.
For instance, about 18-ish years ago, I went to a wine event with a date, and one attendee shared a bottle of 30-year-old German Riesling. Unfortunately, I don’t have the notes I took at the time – it was pre-Wineaux – and it was one of the most esoteric wine experiences of my life. The wine was like motor oil; it was dark and rich in color, and the taste had every complex trait that you’d ever expect from a Mosel Riesling. My eyes rolled firmly into the back of my head. It was emotional.
That being said, sweet white wines, as a rule, can age without issue. Especially those wines from iconic regions such as Germany, Spain, France, or Hungary.
Dry white wines, especially those that are “commercial” in scope, don’t age as well. They are made to be consumed immediately after purchase. In this case, “immediately” means within about six months after purchase. There are also red wines that follow the same general concept. For instance, Beaujolais Nouveau, released every November, should be drunk before May of the next year. Otherwise, it develops what I call a “stringy” taste that is unappealing. That isn’t an actual wine tasting term, but it fits for me. I don’t regularly buy it, but if you do and think it can be aged, I’m discouraging you from doing so. Just drink it. It’s a refreshing red wine, and it’s too bad it can’t be a summer red.
But I digress.
Desparada. Again!
Now back to the original question. Sauvignon Blanc can age, but most are meant to be enjoyed pretty young. The crisp, fresh, citrusy style is usually best within a year or two. Most whites, as a matter of course, are meant to be enjoyed within five years of vintage. Any longer, and many whites lose their fruit, structure, complexity, and become little more than lemon juice, vinegar, or just blah. A good rule of thumb is that simple white wines from volume wine makers should be drunk young. Many white wines from quality producers, on the other hand, can age well, but not usually for long (5+ years).
My experience with Desparada Fragment was so far outside the realm of reality that it felt almost otherworldly.
I bought the last remaining Magnum of 2013 Fragment in September of 2024 when I went to Paso Robles with my sister (thanks, Ancestry.com!) and we did the members’ tasting. I mentioned that Fragment was my favorite of the approximately 100,000 Sauvignon Blanc wines Desparada makes.
Ok. That may be a slight exaggeration.
Chris, the incredibly cute wine guy who was serving us, brought out the Magnum and offered it as the last one. I tried to fight it. It’s a 90-point wine at a time when the big wine publishers had just discovered Paso Robles. Am I gonna say no?
Anyway, a couple or so weeks ago, I decided to open it and share with Zach. It lasted a few days and only got better. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
I wanted to share it with a group, but because the “white wines don’t age, especially New World” mantra was marching in my brain, I decided to keep it in the house.
Damn. I was so, so wrong.
What was that Noise? Was it Angels?
Vaila makes each of her Sauvignon Blancs a little differently. Fragment has a very interesting vinification story. Fermented using a mix of vessels, including neutral French oak barrels, stainless steel tanks, and brand-new French acacia barrels. Yes. Acacia. Apparently one of Vaila’s favorite vessels, it gives a distinct twist to the usual “only oak” scenarios.
My experience with Desparada Fragment was so far outside the realm of reality that it felt almost otherworldly.
As an aside, although the wines are made in Paso Robles, the grapes are sourced from Santa Barbara County, which makes perfect sense. It’s all about the terroir. Paso Robles’ warmer climate is great for rich reds, but not necessarily for whites (except Rhône whites, which is another post somewhere down the line), and the early morning fog makes the grapes perfect for quality Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are sourced from the McGinley Vineyard of Santa Ynez Valley and the Presqu’ile Vineyard in Santa Barbara.
In a word, delicious. Surprisingly so, and now I wish I had another bottle to share with a larger group over one evening. It’s not the first time I’ve wished that I had a rewind button on life.
Argh.
So. In Summary…
Yes, even white wines can age. This assumes the wines come from a quality producer and are made with care.
I’ve had about five or so Sauvignon Blancs from Desparada, and have enjoyed each one. Each is surprisingly unique and doesn’t even remotely resemble anything from Marlborough.
Next time you’re in Paso Robles, or if you can’t get there, fill your basket with the Sauvignon Blancs on the website. And enjoy the unique character of each one.
Note: Sauvignon Blanc means Savage White. Which has all kinds of connotations that I can’t even begin to address…
