“Either give me more wine or leave me alone.”
― Muhammad bin Muhammad bin al-Husayn al-Khatibi al-Balkhi al-Bakri aka Rumi
I have loved writing about these wines. Friends have given me suggestions, reminding me of the times and wines we have enjoyed together. To quote Homer, “The wine urges me on, the bewitching wine….”
45. Château Latour Premier Grand Cru Classé Pauillac 1995.
I had an extraordinary dinner whilst in Bordeaux (actually, I had several extraordinary dinners). After all, there are nine Michelin-starred restaurants in the city center alone. One of the wines served at dinner was Château Latour Premier Grand Cru Classé Pauillac 1995. Château Latour is an original First Growth under the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. Latour, located in Pauillac, is in the Médoc region northwest of Bordeaux City. It shares its border with Saint-Julien. A well-aimed golf club could hit the banks of the Gironde estuary with a golf ball from Château Latour.
The proximity to the Gironde estuary and the Atlantic Ocean results in a maritime climate that offers fuller-bodied wines with lower acidity and higher alcohol. This means that the wines of Latour have riper tannins and fruit flavors due to the Mediterranean temperature, which is temperate with a long, dry, and sunny growing season due to the moderating influence of the Gironde estuary.
The Château has been occupied since 1331, and vines were first planted in the 14th century. It is presently owned by François Pinault’s Groupe Artémis S.A. Grand Vin Château Latour is, on average, a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, with the Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc rounding out the remaining 5%. Some of the vines are more than one hundred years old. Typically, Latour produces around 18,000 cases annually. Latour has a second wine named Les Forts de Latour, which is an excellent wine in its own right.
We went to the vineyard for a tasting of Château Latour Premier Grand Cru Classé Pauillac 2012. This was a stellar wine, and I could not believe I was having it at the vineyard. However, I was going to have an older vintage that evening.
We had a Château Latour Premier Grand Cru Classé Pauillac 1995. The ’95 is an exceptional vintage deemed a “Great year.” The Latour ‘95 is an inky, almost opaque, purple-colored wine. The nose is stunning, presenting dark fruits, particularly black currants, black plums, and blackberries. There are nuances of cedar, leather, and tobacco. It is not just tobacco on the nose, but a Cuban cigar. The palate is enveloped by jammy crème de cassis, dark chocolate, espresso bean, and exotic spices. This is an exceptional full-bodied wine with a long lingering finish.
Every sip of this Latour was meant to be savored, and I savored it each time I Jarlened the glass. To “Jarlene a glass” is an unofficial wine term. It is an inside joke with my wine group. Jarlene was a member of our group. She would swirl the glass for an excessively long period of time, holding it in her right hand adjacent to her right ear if she liked the wine. Later, after finishing the wine, she’d lay the glass on its side to collect the last drops into a little puddle of deliciousness. Thus, she became a verb.
I felt that I was drinking history with each sip of the ’95 Latour.
46. Château Margaux Premier Grand Cru Classé Pauillac 1985 – “Are really going to spit a Château Margaux?”
Château Margaux is one of the world’s most revered vineyards. It is one of the original First Growth under the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, like Château Latour. The estate traces its history to the 12th century. Château Margaux is located in the commune, or township, of Margaux in the Médoc region. This means that it is on the left bank of the Garonne estuary. The wine is part of the Margaux AOC.
We went to the vineyards for a tasting of the 2012 Château Margaux Premier Grand Cru Classé Pauillac and Pavillon Rouge. The estate also produces a third wine, namely, Margaux de Château Margaux, which we were not tasting that afternoon.
The iconic mansion, designed in the New Republic architectural style, graces the Château Margaux label and is the centerpiece of the estate. It is used as a residence by the Mentzelopoulos family, who are the estate owners.
Our presenter gave us a tour of the beautiful vineyard and barrel room before leading us to the tasting room. The 2012 Premier Grand Cru Classé is 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and rounded out with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave it 96 points, and Wine Spectator gave it 95 points. The Pavillon Rouge had similar varietal percentages, with 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. This wine was rated 93 points by Wine Spectator and 91 points by Wine Enthusiast.
Our presenter poured a glass of the Premier Grand Cru Classé for herself and us as she began her presentation. We simultaneously inhaled the majesty of this remarkable wine. We then took a sip. However, our presenter lifted a spit bucket.
I asked, “Are you really going to spit a Château Margaux?”
“I normally would not, but I have to do another presentation,” she replied.
One of the other members of our group chimed in, saying, “I want your job!”
Both wines were outstanding. However, there was a reason why the Pavillon Rouge is a second wine. One would be perfectly satisfied with the Pavillon Rouge, left to its own. Unfortunately, we were also tasting the epochal Premier Grand Cru Classé. The Pavillon Rouge paled in comparison.
Our presenter poured a glass of the Premier Grand Cru Classé for herself and us as she began her presentation. We simultaneously inhaled the majesty of this remarkable wine. We then took a sip. However, our presenter lifted a spit bucket.
We were not through with Château Margaux. We had a Premier Grand Cru Classé Pauillac 1985 for dinner. This vintage is one of the top vintages for Bordeaux. This wine had a dense purple color with a decided rim variation. The wine was complex, with a nose and palate that were layered. The nose had primary notes of flowers and licorice, quickly followed by baked dark cherries and toasted bread, finishing with a touch of sandalwood.
The palate was fleshy, with primary notes of dark fruits, such as crème de cassis and pomegranate, with a hint of mint, saffron, and caramel. The tannins were very much present, and the overall texture was satiny smooth. This wine was 37 years old, and it will only get better over the next 10 years.
There is a reason Château Margaux is deemed a Premier Cru, and there is a reason why I love wines from Bordeaux.
Santé!
