“Wine cheers the sad, revives the old, inspires the young, and makes weariness forget his toil.”
– Lord Byron
I am highly upset! I thought I had identified 75 wines until I reviewed my list and found I had repeated one. Oh well. I guess I will have to drink more to discover that one wine to make up for my error.
48 and 49. Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion – Proof that siblings can be rivals yet work together.
Château Haut-Brion was one of the initial four vineyards designated as Premier Grand Cru Classé (Classified First Growths) by Emperor Napoleon III’s Les Grands Crus classés en 1855 (Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855). The Château holds the distinction of being the only vineyard of the First Growths that is not in the Haut-Médoc. Château Haut-Brion is in Pessac-Léognan, in Graves, which is about 48 kilometers (30 miles) from Bordeaux City on the left bank of the Garonne River. This signifies that the red wines produced by the Château are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon-based.
Château Haut-Brion also holds several other distinctions. Haut-Brion was the first Bordeaux vineyard named after its terroir instead of the owner or the village. It is the Bordeaux vineyard with the oldest American connection, as Clarence Dillon purchased it in 1935. However, the distinction I found most interesting is that the vineyards are in the middle of Pessac, a suburb of Talence. I cannot get over the idea that people live next door to, or across the street from, a First Growth Château or the Cru Classés Château La Mission Haut-Brion.
Graves, meaning “gravelly land” in French, also describes the soil found there. This means the vines must struggle to reach the water source. The gravelly soil, among other factors, such as weather, impacts the quality and ultimate taste of the wine. It is a myth that French wine law prohibits vineyards from using irrigation. However, it is strictly regulated. Therefore, the taste of the wines can be distinct even when vineyards are adjacent to each other.
Vines were first planted in the 16th century on the grounds of what is now Château La Mission Haut-Brion. The vineyards were bequeathed to the Congregation for the Clergy, then later transferred to the Lazarists, a Catholic order founded by St. Vincent de Paul. The priest cultivated the vineyards and built a beautiful chapel on the grounds, hence the name Château La Mission Haut-Brion.
The 2017 is a rarity in that La Mission Haut-Brion is a Left Bank wine, but the predominant varietal is Merlot.
The vineyards were “transferred” to the state during the French Revolution and sold to private parties in 1792. Family divisions led to Château La Mission Haut-Brion being acquired by Domaine Clarence Dillon, the owner of Château Haut-Brion, which is directly across the street.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion is categorized as a Cru Classé in the Graves classification of 1953 and was considered a significant rival to Château Haut-Brion. The combination of the two estates and economies of scale have resulted in premier, but sister properties that are unique to themselves. The wines from both estates have been lavished with multiple 100-point scores. Many consider Château La Mission Haut-Brion the sixth Premier Grand Cru Classé based on the quality of the wines.
We had a tasting of La Mission Haut-Brion 2017, following a tour of the beautiful grounds, the chai, and the chapel. The 2017 is a rarity in that La Mission Haut-Brion is a Left Bank wine, but the predominant varietal is Merlot. It is a blend of 56.00% Merlot, 39.60% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance is Cabernet Franc. It was a deep, inky, purple color. The nose was reminiscent of sandalwood and dark fruits, particularly crème de cassis, blackberries, and cherries. The palate revealed a medium to full-bodied wine with very firm tannins. They were taut, muscular fruits, such as dark cherries, accompanied by tobacco, chocolate, and spices. It had an abundance of minerality and sous-bois, leading to a lasting finish. I have had La Mission Haut-Brion many times in the past, but I found it bewitching in this beautiful setting.
We had an extraordinary lineup of wines for our closing dinner. It included a Château Margaux 1985, Château Latour 1995, and Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2004, which was my contribution. However, it was the remarkable Château Haut-Brion 2008 that stole my heart and my palate. This wine was comparatively young, but it was without pretense. The wine is exceptional, and it knows it. Every sniff, every sip, says, “Wait a few years, if you like me now. If you can.”
The wine had an opaque purple color. The nose was of dark blue and black fruits, particularly blueberries and black currants, with stewed raspberries, rounded out with touches of floral perfume. Notes of black olive tapenade, dark plums, and tobacco caressed the palate. The mouthfeel was warm and sweet, and the tannins were delicate and had begun to soften. The finish was knee-buckling.
I have a Château Haut-Brion 2008 in my cellar, and I intend to share it with friends in five to ten years.
Santé
