“Men are like wine; some turn to vinegar, but the best improves with age.”
― Pope John XXIII
I have always loved New World wines, particularly California Cabs. However, writing this series of articles has made me realize how much I also love Old World wines. My late friend Richard Ryti was perusing my wines the first time he saw my cellar, and I said to him, “There is more in there than Napa Cabs. I have Old World wines as well.”
Richard replied, “They may be Old World, but they are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon.” I could not argue with him. I do have a penchant for Cabernet Sauvignon.*
50. Château Lafite Rothschild – There is a reason why it was designated a First Growth.
Château Lafite Rothschild is one of the most storied Bordeaux wines. It is consistently ranked as one of the most coveted and expensive wines in the world, and I was able to taste it at the vineyard.
(I received a notice as I was writing this article that Château Lafite Rothschild is currently closed to visitors due to renovations. I am happy I got to tour the vineyards and have a tasting before the renovations began, and I cannot wait to return to see the changes.)
Château Lafite Rothschild, originally Château Lafite, is one of the initial four Les Grands Crus classés en 1855 (Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855) or First Growths. The Château is located in the village of Pauillac, which is in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. The property dates from the early 13th century and most of the vines were first planted in the 16th century. The Médoc is directly south of the Garonne River on the Left Bank. Thus, the dominant varietal is Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Château was acquired by the Rothschild family in 1868, and the property was renamed Château Lafite Rothschild. The family has retained ownership since that time. The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 ranked the Châteaux based on reputation and trading price. Lafite Rothschild was very expensive in 1855, and it has retained its cachet as one of the world’s most expensive wines. In fact, in November 2010, a pre-phylloxera 750ml bottle of the 1869 vintage sold for $233,973.00 at a Sotheby’s auction. That would equate to approximately $29,000 a glass. The 1869 vintage was the first vintage following the acquisition of the vineyards by the Rothschild family.
Today, the Château is one of the largest in Médoc, comprising approximately 107 hectares (264 acres). We took a tour of the vineyards, the chai, and the other facilities before ending up in the tasting room, where we were going to taste the 2002 vintage.
Our presenter decanted the wines for about two hours before the tasting. White wines tend to get darker as they age, whereas red wines tend to become lighter as they age. The 2002 vintage had a deep purple color without noticeable rim variation, which was remarkable for a wine that was 20 years old. The wine was still opening in the glass.
I do not like to rush by taking a whiff and then immediately tasting the wine, especially a wine of this quality. I prefer to pick up scents from both nostrils and then separately. The nose had primary aromas of dark fruits, particularly Damson plums, blackberries, currants, and dark cherries. There were also hints of tobacco, tea leaf, minerals, black olive, sous-bois, and cedar. It had secondary notes of coconut, mint, graphite, and floral. The more I inhaled the aromas, the more I found floral notes. There was a lot going on in the glass.
At last, I had my first taste. There were blackberries, boysenberries, and a treacly taste akin to Black Mission figs. This is a sophisticated expression of Pauillac. This wine had softened tannins, and it had medium acidity with an elegant mouthfeel. The finish was so long that I am still tasting it. What a brilliant wine!
There is a reason why Château Lafite Rothschild née Château Lafite was designated a First Growth. This wine is magnificent. I will always remember having Lafite Rothschild at the vineyard. I do not know which was better, the wine or the setting. There is no reason I should have to choose. I had both.
Santé!
*Note from Irene: To say that Andras has a penchant for Cabernet Sauvignon is an understatement of biblical proportions. If Cab were illegal, he’d be trafficking it…
