“The simple act of opening a bottle of wine has brought more happiness to the human race than all the collective governments in the history of earth.”
—Jim Harrison, American poet
It is wonderful when you discover a new wine or explore a new wine region. It makes you realize that there will always be more great wines, no matter how many you try.
70. Viña Almaviva Puente Alto – What do you get when you blend the Old World with the New?
Most people will think of Argentina if you were to ask them about South American wines. Argentina makes remarkable wines, so that is not a sin. However, what if I told you there is a country right next door whose wine industry dates back to the middle of the 16th century, during the time of the conquistadors? What if I told you this country’s vines were probably brought over by Spanish missionaries during or following the Spanish Inquisition? What if I told you this country has vineyards that extend from the Pacific Ocean in the west to the Andes Mountains in the east and continue south for more than 800 miles? Lastly, what if I told you that this country is the fifth-largest wine exporter globally and the world’s seventh-largest producer? That country is Chile. Chile’s wines are comparatively under the radar, but world-class wines are made there.
One day, about 17 or 18 years ago, Guillermo, who took care of my pool, remarked that he had not seen me in a while. I told him that I had been travelling in Mendoza, Argentina, enjoying the wineries. Guillermo was from Chile, and he questioned why I did not go there. He gave me side-eye and was very disappointed when I told him that I had never had a Chilean wine.
Guillermo, who did not drink wine, showed up the following week with two bottles of Chilean wine. The wines were surprisingly good, and I was intrigued. I resolved to go to the source. I put a trip to Chile on my bucket list.
My wine friends and I used to attend a weekly Saturday morning wine tasting at Marché Bacchus restaurant before the COVID-19 lockdown. Indio was the presenter who poured the wine each week. Indio was from Chile, and he would occasionally pour Chilean wines, which were universally excellent. We would often discuss Chile and Chilean wines, and he urged me to go to Chile.
I came to the realization that I had let a Chilean trip slip down my bucket list. Then came COVID and its aftermath, which further delayed my trip. The opportunity finally presented itself when I determined to tack a side trip to Chile onto a trip to Argentina’s Uco Valley.
Old World and American winemakers have “discovered” Chile and Chilean wines. Some of the wine world’s most iconic names have formed partnerships or joint ventures, or started bodegas, as wineries are called in the Spanish-speaking world. These ventures have created some of the best New World wines in the style of Bordeaux’s First Growths.
Examples of these joint ventures include Seña, from the Aconcagua Valley. Seña was, initially, a joint venture between Chilean Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi Corporation (Seña is now solely owned by Chadwick following Mondavi’s acquisition by Constellation Brands).
Viña Haras de Pirque Albis was developed as a partnership between Italy’s Piero Antinori, who makes Super Tuscans Solaia and Tignanello in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, and Chilean Bodega owner, Eduardo Matte. There is also Casa Lapostolle, located in Colchagua Valley, Apata, Chile, which was founded by Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, whose family created the French liqueur Grand Marnier.
My favorite Chilean wine has become Viña Almaviva Puente Alto. This wine is created by a joint venture between French 1er Grand Cru Classé maker Mouton Rothschild and Chilean winemaker Concha y Toro.
I found myself at Bodegas Viña Almaviva, located in Puente Alto. This bodega is reminiscent of a Bordelaise winery and for good reason. Almaviva began in 1997 when French Baroness Philippine de Rothschild and Chilean Eduardo Guilisasti Tagle, Chairman of Viña Concha y Toro S.A., created a partnership to develop a wine under the French Château concept.
Chile is the world’s narrowest country. It is more than 2,700 miles long and only 250 miles at its widest point. Puente Alto rises to an altitude of 2,000 meters (6,600 feet). The semi-arid Mediterranean climate gets almost 12 inches of rain annually. The Mediterranean climate and Andean terroir, coupled with century-old winemaking techniques, result in mouth-watering, award-winning wines.
Almaviva is a blend of Bordeaux varieties grown from grapes from the Maipo River Valley wine region. The Maipo River Valley is located just south of Chile’s capital, Santiago. The Pacific Ocean is to the west, and the Andes are to the east. This beautiful winery is located 650 meters (2,133 feet) above sea level, at the highest point of the Maipo River Valley.
Those who know me know that I love a Bordeaux blend, no matter where in the world it is from. Almaviva is a blend of estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, with lesser percentages of Carménère, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. This wine is a masterpiece! The 2015 and 2017 vintages received 100-points from James Suckling, who also named the 2017 vintage “Wine of the Decade.”
Almaviva is aged for 18-to-20 months in 70% to 80% new French oak. This gives the wine vanilla, clove, and tobacco notes. It has floral aromas, particularly dried rose petals. The palate suggests ripe plum, dark fruits, fig, dried flowers, pine bark, and sous-bois. The wine is silky and balanced with supple tannins. Almaviva is at once beautifully balanced and well-integrated. This is a wine that will hold its own against any Old or New World wine.
I only wish I knew where Guillermo is today. I would share my thoughts about Chile and my newfound appreciation of Chilean wines.
71. Araujo Estate Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 – A Cult wine that is truly worthy of that term.
There are many good wines, and there are a few great wines. Then, there are far fewer wines that are considered Cult wines, although some, like Ann Colgin of Colgin Cellars, do not like the term.
What does it take to be considered a Cult wine? A Cult wine can be from any wine region, Old World or New. These wines can be red, white, rosé, or sparkling. Cult wines can be single-varietal or a blend.
Cult wines cannot be mass-produced; they must be limited in production. Cult wines are also expensive, almost by definition. I have a question for you: Are Cult wines expensive because they are scarce, or are they scarce because they are expensive? These wines are highly sought after yet limited in availability. The one word I am sure all will include in their definition of a Cult wine is “Quality.” One more thing, a Cult wine does not have to be curated by Heidi Barrett, although that certainly helps.
There is a wine that fits any definition of “Cult wine,” Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Eisele Vineyard Estate (formerly Araujo Winery) is a Cult wine. Bart and Daphne Araujo bought the historic Eisele Vineyard from Milt and Barbara Eisele in 1990. The Eiseles planted vines in the 1960s. The Araujoes planted varietals such as Petit Verdot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier. The vineyard was sold to François Pinault’s Artémis Domaines, the owner of Château Latour, in 2013.
I was at a dinner with friends around 2001. Each of us brought a dish and a bottle. One friend brought Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard 1995. I had never had or even heard of this wine at that time. The wine was incredible! This may have been the first time I had a Cult wine.
The Araujo Estate Cab had everything I love about a red wine blend. This wine is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, at 94%, rounded out with 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The varietals are all single-vineyard from the Eisele Vineyard. Firstly, it had a prominent deep purple color. The amazing bouquet was redolent with red currant, plum, minerals, tobacco, sous-bois, cedar, dried herbs, and floral scents. The juice glided effortlessly, coating my palate with opulent notes of crème de cassis, dusky rich plum, dark chocolate, toffee, and Asian spice. The lavish tannins were plush, and the acidity crisp, all leading to a lengthy finish.
This is what a Cult wine is like. It is a wine that will always have an intensely fawning following, and I will always have this wine in my cellar. Papi like!
Cheers!
